We are proud to announce a simple installation guide that can be used on all EJ fitment vehicle. We kept most of the description as generic as possible and high lighted the key steps in replacing your turbo. As stated in the video there may be differences in your exact application. Below the video is the full transcript of the narration.
Welcome to the installation video for EJ fitment steam speed turbo chargers.
- Today we will be installing a steam speed stx67r-10 twin scroll on our version 8 ej207. This process can be applied to any EJ fitment vehicle or to these listed part numbers.
- Notice our vehicle is far from stock and what you see in the video may not match your vehicle. However, the key points of the process will be the same.
- We begin by gaining clear access to the turbo. We removed the air filter and Mass Air Flow sensor housing and charge pipe at the turbo.
- If you have a top mount inter cooler remove that from the throttle body and compressor outlet.
- The silicon or plastic hoses may be stuck. Use brake clean to break the adhesion and carefully work the sealing edge with a hose pick. Take caution not to puncture or tare the hoses as this will lead to a boost leak later.
- Next remove any heat shielding you may have installed. Whether that’s a turbo blanket such as the steam speed titanium or carbon fiver turbo blankets or bolted on stamped steel heat shields.
- Next use a rust penetrator such as “wd40”, or “pb blaster” and soak the turbine housing bolts on the up and down pipe flanges. Allow them to soak for at least 15 to 20 minutes.
- While the bolts soak, place a collection pan underneath the vehicle directly below the turbo and remove the coolant and oil lines connected to the CHRA portion of the turbo.
- I suggest using hose clamps to minimize the amount of spilled coolant and coolant unnecessarily draining from the engine.
- I also cap the coolant lines on the turbo to also minimize the mess.
- Next you can begin to loosen and remove all the up and down pipe flange bolts.
- Caution, these bolts can break if too rusted together. If this happens you will need to replace them.
- When the flange bolts and nuts are removed disconnect the down pipe from its solid mounts on the side of the transmission. Up plug any oxygen sensors and move the down pipe from the vehicle.
- Once the down pipe is clear loosen the compressor inlet pipe and maneuver it toward the front of the vehicle underneath the intake manifold until it is clear of the compressor housing.
- Then you should be able to lift the turbo off the up pipe flange and oil drain tube.
- Take caution with the oil drain tube as the hoses can stick and tension clamps can lose their tension over time and fall off while removing. The open oil drain will be exposed and can risk material falling into it.
- Place the new and old turbo chargers on a work bench and note any comparable differences that may cause fitment issue or parts that may need to be transferred such as coolant lines or the oil drain tube.
- Next you will see there are 3 studs provided with your new turbo. Place these in the corresponding locations compared to your previously removed turbo. Then tighten these studs with a 7mm open end wrench.
- Apply thread sealant or thread tape to the oil feed line fitting on the back side of the cylinder head. This will be a hard line on AVCS equipped engines.
- Then install the oil feed line.
- Prep the up and down pipe flanges for new gaskets, remove any surface rust or grease and oil with a fine grade abrasive pad. Then place your new up pipe gasket on the flange.
- Place your new steam speed STX turbo charger on to your up pipe flange. Remain aware of the oil drain tube alignment. If the drain tube is new it may be more difficult to slide onto the metal portion connected to the CHRA (center housing rotation assembly). You can apply a thin film of engine oil to the rubber drain tube to ease its fitment on to the metal portion. Then Place the tension clamps back into place.
- Carefully guide your turbo inlet pipe onto the inlet of the compressor housing. On larger turbo’s this may be more difficult as the compressor inlet diameter may be larger than the diameter of your inlet pipe. Tighten the clamp, securing it to the compressor housing.
- Begin to reinstall all the nuts and bolts securing the turbo to the up pipe. Be sure all nuts and bolts are in place before tightening all the way. Place your down pipe gasket on to the outlet flange and studs on the turbine housing. And guide the down pipe into place.
- Then install the down pipe flange nuts and bolts. Again do not tighten until all bolts are in place.
- Torque all up and down pipe bolts to 26 ft/lbs
- Next apply thread sealant or tread tape to the oil feed line fitting on the top side of the CHRA.
- Reconnect the coolant hoses and vacuum lines.
- Carefully check each step on the installation to be sure nothing was missed or any hoses moved out of place.
- Reinstall the charge pipe and air filter housing.
- The most important step is priming the oil system. If this step is not performed eruptible damage will be done to the CHRA.
- Disable the ignition system but either removing the crank sensor signal.
- Crank the vehicle over for a minimum of 30 seconds.
- Re connect the ignition system and start the car.
- Allow the vehicle to idle for 15 to 20 minutes and reach operating temp slowly. Do not rev the engine.
- Inspect your work for coolant or oil leaks at the fittings and hoses.
- Be observant for a hiss noise of possible vacuum or intake leaks.
- Once the vehicle has been thoroughly checked, let it cool and reinstall your heat shielding.
- It is now imperative your vehicle is tuned by a trusted tuner using a chassis dynamometer.